Big, modern, "vibrant". Big. The new hauptbahnhof (main train station) shows some of what can be done when a city is bisected by no-mans-land, and then isn't. Mostly you can tell where the wall was because of all the shiny new buildings. Urban renewal without all the eminent domain fights.
I still have three unanswered questions:
Why all the big pink and blue pipes running around at roughly head level, with curves and corners?
Why was the instant coffee locked up in the grocery? Literally behind a locked glass door, like expensive jewelry in some stores. Nescafe Gold isn't really, you know, guys.
Who was the group singing and cheering outside our hotel (at the hauptbahnhof) at 2:30 in the morning? Sounded like a big group, not just a couple of people.